Pacitan. “A circumstance in which both the
environment as well as the people you are with are right at the moment
of time,” said Matthijs Steur, a graduate student from Leiden
University, to explain gezillig , a Dutch word often used in a
comfortable and pleasant situation.
This word sounds fitting to describe our three-day trip in Pacitan,
East Java, where six Leiden students and I were taking some time off
from our three-month research work in several areas in Java.
We set out from Yogyakarta, five hours away. Our first stop was at a
hot spring bathing place called Banyu Anget. The water was so hot that I
noticed some visitors squealing as they stepped gingerly in.
Interestingly, though, it did not smell sulphurous, as hot springs
typically do. This place is open 24 hours, so the best time to be here
is in the afternoon or at night, maybe after spending the day on the
beach.
Feeling relaxed after the bath, we continued our trip to Soge Beach
in Sidomulyo village. This beach is accessible via a recently built
highway, which has made it a popular hangout place.
Some of us jumped into the water despite the big waves that made it
difficult to swim. The rest of the time, we just played in the white
sand. Then, we ran around, jumped, and even held a little competition of
throwing dried coconuts as far as possible.
It was like revisiting those carefree, frolicking moments of one’s
childhood. But, sadly, we could not get to see the sunset because it was
cloudy, forcing us to find accommodation quickly.
We decided to go to Harry’s Homestay, a three-story inn near Teleng
Ria Beach. It only had six rooms, and we were lucky to be the only
people staying there that night.
That was an opportunity that we could not help but take advantage of,
surely, by playing reverse-role hide-and-seek: One person hides, while
the rest looks for them. The person who finds the hider must join them
in hiding. That goes on until there is one seeker left.
We used almost all parts of the building, the gazebo and the large
yard as a playing arena. If not for remembering that we would have a
long day tomorrow, we could have stayed up all night.
The next day was simply exciting. We were going to spend it at Srau
Beach, located on the other side of the hills, some 25 kilometers to the
west of Pacitan town center. It is a known haven for surfers and, being
quite far from downtown, is usually not packed with visitors.
The nearest village is few kilometers away. So don’t think of lines
of hotels or restaurants; there are only a small mosque, an open hall
where people can rest, and some stalls selling modest food and drinks.
The beach has three surf spots with challenging ridges for rookies or
experienced surfers. The first one is at the back of the ticket booth
that it is often called “The Portal.” The second is Pancingan, down the
coral hill on the west of the beach that usually serves as a base point
for the local fishermen. The third spot is Pandan, behind the coral
hill.
Srau’s waves are of the reef-break type, meaning that they occur
because the sea water moves against coral reefs. The seabed is
predominantly made of reefs, so surfers had better be really careful.
“The months between November and February are the best for surfing and chasing barrels at Srau,” said Hendry, our surfing coach.
Toward dusk, we got up to walk along the edges of the hills. Hiking
on coral hills with the sea off to the side was a unique experience for
me. I imagined the hills on the Teletubbies show while jumping around.
But the rain came not long after. Once more, we failed to see the
sunset.
Still in the mood for riding waves, my friends spared the next
morning for surfing at Teleng Ria, not far from our inn. Although the
beach is poorly maintained, with plastic waste littered everywhere,
surfing seems too compelling an activity to make visitors not want to
come.
The surfing finally over, we had time for a visit to Gong Cave. Gong
is one of the hidden caves in Pacitan’s small mountains. It is a
horizontal cave extending around 256 meters. Inside, there are
stalactites and stalagmites of huge sizes.
According to our tour guide,
Gong has the prettiest stalactite and stalagmite formations of any cave
in Southeast Asia.
It turned out that the cave was really famous, and thus crowded. We
had to go down the steps quickly to make way for other visitors. To be
honest, it was breathtaking down there, but we were not really satisfied
with the rushed tour.
To close out the vacation we hurried to Klayar Beach, 45 kilometers
west of Pacitan. The trip there is a challenge because the road is
narrow and extensively damaged, as well as winding.
Klayar draws more visitors than Srau. Its highlight is the lagoon at
the east end. Situated between two coral reefs, the lagoon looks
stunning with the waves pounding the reefs, splashing and then turning
on the white sands. The water smashes the reefs so relentlessly and with
such force that it results in a kind of waterfall pouring foamy
streams.
And then there are the towering reefs. One of them, if you look at it
closely, resembles the Sphinx. To explore the coral area behind them
requires no ticket, but visitors must make a “voluntary” donation to the
local officials.
I screamed from surprise when out of the blue a fountain spurted up
from a leak in the reef, dousing me and my friends. When the waves are
strong enough, the water goes under the reef and gushes skyward to
heights of up to 10 meters. This fountain often surges to the
accompaniment of a whistling sound that people call “ seruling laut ,”
or “sea flute.”
The most wonderful feeling I had there was when we climbed on the hip
of the Sphinx coral reef, which was quite spacious, and sat there to
relish the view: waves rolling into the lagoon, the waterfall to my
right, the wave-driven fountain to my left, and the seascape as far as
the eye can see.
It was the most beautiful spot to watch a sunset that I have been to
all my life. And yes, we were lucky that the universe eventually gave
the sun a fine sky to descend into at the time.
Having been reminded several times by the lifeguard to come down, we
went back to our original spot by the small river that splits the shore.
There we spread out some cloths to sit on and make merry. We drank up
the bottles of beer from the cool box and chewed the fat, savoring the
remaining twilight of the coastal sky. Gezillig!
Source : Jakartaglobe
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